Using Your Taylor Test Kit
Master the Taylor K-2006 test kit with step-by-step guidance that descalates the overwhelming complexity for first-time users.
Taylor Test Kit Guide for Beginners
Master your Taylor K-2006 test kit with confidence. It's not as scary as it looks!
The Taylor K-2006 looks intimidating with all those bottles and instructions, but it's actually just basic color matching and drop counting. After 2-3 tests, you'll have the routine memorized. This is WAY more accurate than test strips, and you'll understand your pool chemistry instead of guessing.
Quick Reference - Test Order & Frequency
- • FC - Free Chlorine (sanitation level)
- • pH - Acidity/alkalinity balance
- • CC - Combined Chlorine (if FC test goes yellow)
- • TA - Total Alkalinity (pH buffer)
- • CH - Calcium Hardness (monthly)
- • CYA - Cyanuric Acid (when changed)
Understanding Your Test Kit
Let's demystify what's in that intimidating box. It's just chemistry made portable!
Photo of Taylor K-2006 test kit laid out with all components labeled: test tubes, reagent bottles, color comparator, instructions, and storage case
- • Label bottles with purchase date using a permanent marker
- • Store kit indoors at room temperature - heat and freezing ruin reagents
- • Keep bottles tightly sealed - air degrades accuracy over time
Collecting a Good Water Sample
Garbage in, garbage out. A proper sample is half the battle.
Photo showing proper arm depth (elbow-deep) reaching into pool, collecting water away from returns and skimmers
- • Wet your hands before touching test tubes - dry skin leaves oils that skew results
- • If testing near sunrise/sunset, keep sample shaded until testing
- • For new pools or after adding chemicals, wait 30+ min for circulation
Testing Free Chlorine (FC) - The Critical Test
This is your sanitation level. Master this test first - it's the most important.
Photo sequence: 1) Filling large tube to FC mark, 2) Adding R-0003 (5 drops showing pink color), 3) Adding R-0002 drop-by-drop from FAS-DPD bottle, 4) Mixing with stirring rod, 5) Final clear endpoint
- • Pink → clear is normal. If it goes pink → yellow, your CC is high (see Combined Chlorine test)
- • High FC (>10 ppm) may take 30+ drops - don't panic, keep counting
- • The pink color should disappear INSTANTLY when you hit the endpoint
- • If you overshoot (add too many drops), restart - there's no going back
Testing pH - The Easy One
This is the simplest test. Use it to build your confidence!
Photo: Test tube filled to pH line, comparator block showing color scale from yellow (6.8) through orange to red (8.2), sample tube inserted showing orange color matching 7.4 mark
- • If between two colors, round DOWN to lower value (7.3 = report as 7.2)
- • Test in good lighting - sunlight or bright indoor light is best
- • Yellow = low pH (acidic), Red = high pH (basic), Orange = goldilocks zone
- • If color is dark purple or doesn't match scale, your alkalinity is very high
Testing Total Alkalinity (TA)
This test involves more steps, but follow the recipe and you'll nail it.
Photo sequence: 1) Filling tube to TA mark, 2) Adding R-0007 (2 drops) showing green color, 3) Adding R-0008 drop-by-drop from bottle, 4) Color progression from green to blue-gray to pink endpoint
- • The green-to-blue transition is gradual - don't rush, swirl thoroughly
- • Gray is almost there - next 1-2 drops will turn pink
- • If you overshoot to bright pink, you under-counted (start over)
- • Test TA BEFORE adjusting it - small changes have big impacts
Testing Calcium Hardness (CH)
Very similar to TA test - same drop-counting technique, different reagents.
Photo sequence: 1) Filling tube to CH mark, 2) Adding R-0010 buffer (20 drops), 3) Adding R-0011L indicator (5 drops) showing red/pink color, 4) Adding R-0011 titrant drop-by-drop, 5) Blue endpoint
- • The 20 drops of buffer seems like a lot - it's correct, keep counting
- • Purple stage lasts a while - be patient, keep adding until pure blue
- • If it never turns blue after 50+ drops, your CH is very high (500+ ppm)
- • Test CH monthly - it doesn't change rapidly like FC or pH
Testing Cyanuric Acid (CYA) - The Patience Test
This is the trickiest test, but CYA rarely changes so you only do it occasionally.
Photo sequence: 1) Filling SMALL tube to CYA mark, 2) Adding R-0013 powder (one level scoop), 3) Shaking tube vigorously showing cloudy white solution, 4) View down tube from top showing black dot at bottom of white viewing tube, 5) Using syringe to slowly remove water until dot becomes barely visible
- • Do this test in BRIGHT light - sunlight is best, or use phone flashlight
- • Remove liquid SLOWLY - once you see the dot, you can't un-see it
- • If dot is visible immediately, your CYA is <30 ppm (start over with fresh sample)
- • Test CYA only when you suspect it changed (added stabilizer, drained pool, etc.)
- • CYA doesn't degrade - once it's in the pool, it stays until you drain/dilute
Reading Results & Avoiding Mistakes
You've done the tests - now let's make sure you interpret them correctly.
Cleanup, Storage & Maintenance
Taking care of your kit means accurate tests for years to come.
- • Taylor sells reagent refill kits - cheaper than buying individual bottles
- • If a test starts giving weird results, try a new reagent first before assuming pool issue
- • Test tubes last forever if treated gently - they're the most durable part
- • Join online pool chemistry communities - experienced users help troubleshoot test issues
Additional Resources
📖 Official Taylor Instructions
The instruction booklet in your kit has diagrams for each test. Keep it handy until you memorize the steps!
🎥 Video Tutorials
Search YouTube for "Taylor K-2006 FC test" or "Taylor test kit tutorial" - seeing the color changes in action helps immensely.
💬 Online Pool Chemistry Communities
Join online pool chemistry communities - they're incredibly helpful for troubleshooting weird test results or kit issues.
🛒 Replacement Reagents
Buy reagent refills from Taylor directly or pool supply stores. R-0003 (FC test) and R-0001 (pH) need replacing most often.
Remember: Every pool owner who uses this kit felt overwhelmed at first. By test #3, you'll wonder why you ever used test strips. You're investing in accurate chemistry, which means crystal clear water and way less money spent on unnecessary chemicals. You've got this! 💪
Checklist
- 1Understand what's in the kit - demystify all those bottles and tools.
- 2Learn how to collect a proper water sample (depth, location, timing).
- 3Master the FC test - the most important test you'll do.
- 4Test pH using the color comparator - build confidence with the easiest test.
- 5Test Total Alkalinity (TA) with drop-counting technique.
- 6Test Calcium Hardness (CH) - similar to TA but different reagents.
- 7Test Cyanuric Acid (CYA) - the trickiest test explained simply.
- 8Avoid common mistakes that throw off your results.
- 9Clean, store, and maintain your kit for long-lasting accuracy.
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