Pool Inventory & Equipment ID
Identify what equipment you have and understand what it does. Essential for inherited pools.
Pool Inventory & Equipment Identification
Bought a house with a pool? Let's figure out what you have. 30 minutes now saves hundreds in service calls later.
Pool equipment is intimidating at first, but it's actually just a few simple systems. By the end of this guide, you'll know exactly what you have, what it does, and how to maintain it. Take photos as you go - you'll reference them constantly during your first season.
Why This Matters: You Can't Maintain What You Don't Know
Take 30 minutes to inventory your equipment. It'll save you hundreds in unnecessary service calls.
- • Take photos of EVERYTHING - equipment labels, plumbing layout, control panels
- • Create a folder (digital or physical) for all manuals and receipts
- • Label breakers in your electrical panel - 'Pool Pump', 'Pool Heater', etc.
- • Ask previous owner for equipment list if possible - saves detective work
Step 1: The Equipment Pad - Your Command Center
This is where the magic happens. Usually near the pool, might be behind a fence.
The heart. Circulates water. Usually loudest piece of equipment.
How to identify: Round motor with basket strainer on front. Makes humming noise when running.
Model #: Metal plate on motor body or pump housing
Common brands: Pentair, Hayward, Jandy, Sta-Rite, Waterway, Jacuzzi
The lungs. Removes dirt, debris, and particles.
How to identify: Large tank (DE/sand) or canister (cartridge). Connected after pump.
Model #: Label on tank side or top dome
Common brands: Pentair, Hayward, Jandy, Sta-Rite
- • Pump runs = water flows. If pump is silent but should be running, you have a problem.
- • Filter pressure gauge should read 10-25 PSI when clean (varies by system)
- • Label your breakers NOW - you'll thank yourself during the first emergency
Step 2: Pump - The Workhorse
Your pump circulates all pool water. Understand it, maintain it, respect it.
On/off only. Loud. Energy hog. Being phased out in many states.
Pros: Simple, cheap to replace
Cons: High electric bills ($50-150/month), can't optimize flow
Adjustable RPM. Quiet. Energy-efficient. Pays for itself in 2-3 years.
Pros: Low electric bills ($10-30/month), precise control, longer life
Cons: Higher upfront cost ($600-1200)
- • Variable-speed pumps save $500-1000/year in electricity - upgrade is worth it
- • Run pump at low speed most of the time (1200-1800 RPM), high speed for vacuuming
- • Pump should run 6-12 hours per day depending on season and pool size
- • If pump won't prime: Check valves, basket, water level, and air leaks
Step 3: Filter - Your Pool's Air Purifier
Three types: Sand, cartridge, DE (diatomaceous earth). Each has pros/cons.
Identify: Large round/oval tank with multiport valve on top or side
Filtration: Filters to 20-40 microns (okay, not great)
Maintenance: Backwash when pressure rises 20-25%, change sand every 5-7 years
Pros: Low maintenance, cheap to operate, forgiving
Cons: Poorest filtration, wastes water during backwashing
Identify: Cylindrical tank, no backwash valve, cartridge(s) inside
Filtration: Filters to 10-15 microns (best)
Maintenance: Rinse cartridges monthly, deep clean quarterly, replace every 2-3 years
Pros: Best filtration, no backwashing (saves water), no waste water
Cons: More hands-on cleaning, cartridges cost $50-150 each
Identify: Tank with grids inside, multiport valve, requires DE powder
Filtration: Filters to 3-5 microns (excellent)
Maintenance: Backwash when pressure rises, recharge with DE powder, clean grids annually
Pros: Excellent filtration, crystal-clear water
Cons: Messy (DE powder), backwashing required, grid replacement every 3-5 years
- • Record your 'clean pressure' after backwash/cleaning - baseline for future
- • When pressure rises 20-25% above clean: Time to backwash or clean
- • Never run pump without filter media (sand, cartridges, or DE) - damages equipment
- • Sand filter hack: Add DE powder (1 cup) after backwashing for better filtration
Step 4: Heater (If You Have One)
Extends swimming season. Expensive to run. Many go unused because owners don't understand them.
Identify: Large box with gas line, exhaust vent on top, pilot light inside
Heat speed: Fast - heats pool in hours
Cost: High ($5-15 per hour of heating)
Best for: Infrequent use, quick heat-up, cold climates
Identify: Box with fan on top (sounds like AC unit), no gas line
Heat speed: Slow - heats pool over 24-48 hours
Cost: Medium ($1-3 per hour of heating)
Best for: Frequent use, mild climates, maintaining temperature
Identify: Black panels on roof or ground, plumbing to/from panels
Heat speed: Slow - gradual warming over days
Cost: Free (uses pump energy only)
Best for: Long swim season, sunny climates, eco-friendly
- • Pool cover cuts heating costs by 50-70% - best ROI for extending season
- • Heat pumps work poorly below 50°F ambient - gas is better for early spring
- • Solar is free heat but needs sun - use solar cover at night to retain heat
- • Reference Winterize Heaters playbook before first freeze - freeze damage costs $1500-4000
Step 5: Sanitizer System - How Your Pool Stays Clean
This is your chlorine delivery method. Critical to understand for chemical planning.
Identify: No chlorine-generating equipment. You add chlorine manually.
Pros: Simple, cheap upfront, full control over chlorine levels
Cons: Must add chlorine 1-3× per week manually
Identify: Box labeled 'salt system', 'salt cell', or 'chlorine generator' with electrode cell in plumbing
Pros: Automated chlorine production, gentler on skin, no storing chemicals
Cons: High upfront cost ($800-2000), salt damages some surfaces, requires CYA 30-50 (same as liquid chlorine)
Identify: Floating dispenser in pool OR inline canister in plumbing
Pros: Slow-release chlorine, less frequent additions
Cons: Tablets add CYA constantly (will overshoot), less control
- • Stabilized chlorine (tablets, granular with 'CYA' in name) raises CYA over time
- • Liquid chlorine (bleach) does NOT raise CYA - use this if CYA is high
- • SWG cells last 3-5 years, cost $300-800 to replace - budget accordingly
- • See Smart Shopping playbook for buying chlorine at 1/5 the pool store price
Step 6: Automation & Controls (If You Have Them)
The fancy stuff: Timers, automation systems, remote controls. Nice to have, not essential.
- • Automation is luxury, not necessity - don't stress if you have a basic timer
- • Battery backup: Check if system has backup battery for time/settings
- • Default passwords: Many systems ship with 'admin/admin' or '1234' - change these!
- • Keep manual accessible: Automation systems are complex, you'll reference it often
Step 7: Document Everything - Future You Will Thank You
Spend 15 minutes organizing what you learned. This pays off forever.
- • Store digital copies in cloud AND print a binder - tech fails, paper doesn't
- • Share with family: Others should know how to turn off equipment in emergency
- • Annual review: Each spring, update this inventory and check for new issues
- • Join online pool communities: Upload photos, get expert ID help for mystery equipment
Common Equipment You Might Also Have
Bonus round: Other stuff that might be lurking in your system.
Look for: Pop-up heads in pool floor/walls, canister with valve
Maintenance: Clean canister monthly, blow out lines before winter
Playbook: See Winterize In-Floor Jets playbook
Look for: Hose connected to skimmer/dedicated line OR standalone robot
Maintenance: Empty bag/canister after each use, check hoses for leaks
Tip: Robotic cleaners are best - no plumbing, no pump load
Look for: Lights in pool wall, junction box on deck
Maintenance: Incandescent bulbs last 2-3 years, LEDs last 10+ years
Tip: Replace with LED when incandescent burns out - huge energy savings
Look for: Dedicated pump, valves, and plumbing
Maintenance: Clean nozzles, check for leaks, winterize in cold climates
Tip: Turn off when not in use - electricity adds up
Look for: Box with probes in plumbing, tanks of acid/chlorine
Maintenance: Calibrate probes quarterly, check reagent levels weekly
Tip: Advanced - learn manual chemistry first before relying on automation
Mission Complete! You now know what you have and how it works. Save those photos and manuals somewhere safe. Next step: Learn how to test your water chemistry and establish your weekly routine. You're doing great! 🎉
Checklist
- 1Locate and photograph all equipment on pad.
- 2Identify pump type (single-speed, variable-speed) and record model.
- 3Identify filter type (sand, cartridge, DE) and maintenance requirements.
- 4Document heater type (gas, heat pump, solar) if present.
- 5Determine sanitizer system (manual, SWG, feeder).
- 6Check for automation, lighting, cleaners, and water features.
- 7Download all equipment manuals and create maintenance schedule.
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