Back/Spring Opening Checklist

Spring Opening Checklist

Bring a closed pool online safely with balancing steps and early maintenance tasks.

When to use: Pool opening after winter closing or extended downtime.
Plan an afternoon
#seasonal#startup

Spring Opening Playbook

Complete checklist for bringing your pool back online after winter

4h

Estimated Time: 3-5 Hours

Plan an afternoon for setup, then 2-3 days for chemistry to stabilize

Critical Safety Reminders
  • • NEVER start pump dry - fill basket with water first (prevents seal damage)
  • • Test GFCI outlets before connecting equipment
  • • Don't overtighten drain plugs - hand-tight + 1/4 turn only
  • • Wait 48 hours after adding CYA before adding salt (CYA interferes with salt readings)
  • • If water is green, skip balancing and go straight to SLAM
Spring Opening Myths
  • MYTH: "Shock heavily on opening day"
    REALITY: Test first. If water is clear, shocking is unnecessary. If green, do SLAM (not a single shock). Unnecessary shocking wastes chlorine and raises CYA if using dichlor/trichlor.
  • MYTH: "Add startup chemicals all at once"
    REALITY: Test and add incrementally. Adding everything simultaneously can cause precipitation (cloudy water) and masks problems. pH and TA first, then CYA, then FC.
  • MYTH: "Drain pool if water is green"
    REALITY: SLAM eliminates algae without draining. Draining risks popping vinyl liners or floating plaster pools due to groundwater pressure. Only drain if CYA exceeds 100 ppm.
1

Remove & Clean Cover

Safely remove winter cover and protect water quality during the process.

Pump standing water off cover before removal (prevents debris entry)
Clean cover with cover cleaner or mild soap - remove all organic matter
Rinse thoroughly and let dry completely before storage
Fold/roll carefully to avoid mildew growth in creases
Store in rodent-proof location (garage, shed, sealed container)
Skim surface debris immediately after cover removal
2

Inspect Equipment & Plumbing

Check all equipment for winter damage before starting circulation.

Inspect pump housing for cracks - especially around drain plugs
Check filter tank for cracks, loose clamps, or damaged o-rings
Examine all unions and o-rings - replace any that look brittle
Remove winterizing plugs from pump, filter, heater, and returns
Reinstall drain plugs with teflon tape - hand-tighten, don't force
Check pool lights and junction boxes for moisture intrusion
3

Start Circulation & Prime System

Fill pool and establish circulation - watch for leaks during startup.

Fill pool to mid-skimmer level (2-4 inches below coping)
Open all return valves and skimmer valves fully
Fill pump basket with water to help prime
Start pump and immediately check for priming (water flowing)
Watch for leaks at unions, valves, and equipment pads during first 10 min
Bleed air from filter tank if pressure gauge shows erratic readings
4

Test & Balance Chemistry

Establish baseline chemistry and make initial adjustments.

Test FC, pH, TA, CYA, CH - record all readings for reference
If water is green: proceed directly to SLAM (don't balance first)
If water is clear: adjust pH to 7.4-7.6, TA to 60-90 ppm
Add CYA to reach 30-40 ppm (or 60-80 for SWG) if needed
Raise FC to minimum target (7.5% of CYA) using liquid chlorine
Don't add salt yet - wait 48 hours for CYA to fully dissolve/mix
5

Brush, Vacuum & Filter

Remove winter debris and establish clean baseline for the season.

Brush all walls, steps, and floor - focus on algae-prone corners
Vacuum to waste if heavy sediment present (bypasses filter)
Vacuum normally if only light debris (through filter)
Run filter 24-48 hours continuously initially
Backwash/clean filter after initial 24hr run - will be very dirty
Continue filtering until water is crystal clear
6

Final Checks & Season Prep

Verify safety equipment and establish maintenance routine.

Test GFCI outlets near pool - replace if they don't trip when tested
Inspect ladders, rails, diving board for damage or loose anchors
Check fence gates, latches, and pool alarms for proper function
Re-test water after 48 hours - verify CYA/salt readings (fully mixed now)
Add salt if using SWG - wait for CYA reading to confirm first
Set timer for normal filtration schedule (8-12 hr/day minimum)

Common Questions

My pump won't prime - what should I check?

Check: 1) All valves are open, 2) Pump basket lid o-ring is seated properly and lubricated, 3) No air leaks at unions before pump, 4) Water level is at mid-skimmer, 5) Impeller isn't clogged. Fill basket with water and try again.

How long until I can swim?

If water is clear at opening: 48-72 hours (allows chemistry to stabilize). If water is green: 5-14 days (requires SLAM process). Never swim until FC is below 10 ppm and pH is balanced.

Should I replace all o-rings annually?

Not necessary. Inspect them - replace only if brittle, cracked, or compressed flat. Lubricate with silicone-based lube annually. Quality o-rings last 3-5 years with proper care.

What if I find a crack in my pump housing?

Don't start the pump. Small cracks can catastrophically fail under pressure. Replace the housing or entire pump before operating. Freeze damage is the most common cause.

Can I add all chemicals on day one?

No. Add pH/TA adjustments first (wait 1 hour with circulation). Then CYA (wait 24 hours to dissolve). Then FC. Then salt after 48 hours. Adding all at once causes clouding and inaccurate readings.

Checklist

  1. 1Remove cover debris and inspect equipment for leaks or cracks.
  2. 2Top off water to mid-skimmer and start circulation; check for priming issues.
  3. 3Test and balance pH, TA, and CYA; bring FC to target.
  4. 4Inspect safety equipment, ladders, and signage.
  5. 5Schedule follow-up test for CYA and salt once water is fully mixed.

Related Playbooks

Winter Closing Checklist

Protect your pool through the off-season with nutrient control, equipment prep, and freeze safeguards.

Winterizing In-Floor Cleaning Systems

Protect pop-up heads, water distribution valves, and booster pumps from freeze damage with proper blow-out and antifreeze procedures.

Winterizing Pool Heaters

Comprehensive winterization for gas, electric, heat pump, solar, and hybrid heaters - prevent $1,500-$4,000 freeze damage.