Cloudy start
Haze without visible green growth needs the guided cloudy-water workflow first.
Use your pool
Use saved test results
Save test results so Poolometer can use your FC and CYA here.
Diagnostic front page
Pick the right clarity workflow
Use this page to route cloudy, green, or stubborn-looking water to the right workflow before you choose a chemical path.
Green start
Green or clinging water should move to algae diagnosis before you buy clarifier.
Heavy debris
Leaves, cover sludge, and settled residue belong on the waste line.
Pump will not start
No prime, power, or startup means pump troubleshooting comes first.
Stains or metals
If the color is attached to the surface, rule out finish or source-water problems first.
Cloudy water is a symptom, not a diagnosis
Fix flow, chlorine, and debris in the right order
Best when
- Fix flow, chlorine, and debris in the right order
Check before you start
- FC
- CC
- CYA
- pH
Stop if
- Do not add clarifier or floc without knowing why the water is cloudy.
- Do not assume it is always algae.
Start here
Do not throw clarifier at a problem you have not classified. Most cloudy-water recoveries start with filtration, brushing, measured chlorine, and patience.
Skip this
- ✕Do not add clarifier or floc without knowing why the water is cloudy.
- ✕Do not assume it is always algae.
Check these first
FC / CC / CYA / pH
1
Empty baskets and verify flow
Start by proving the pool can actually move and filter water.
2
Raise chlorine to a short recovery target
Use measured chlorine after you know the current test result and CYA context.
3
Brush and vacuum what the filter cannot catch
Move debris and early film into the filter path, and remove settled material directly when you can.
4
Reassess after 24 hours before escalating
Give filtration, brushing, and measured chlorine time before changing the diagnosis.
5
Step 5: Evaluate and decide
Clear? Great, return to normal. Improving? Repeat for another 24 hours. Worse or unchanged? Escalate to SLAM.
Questions? (4)
How do I know if it is algae or just haze?
Haze is gray or white and looks uniform. Green, yellow, or slimy growth on walls is algae. Algae needs SLAM, not just a chlorine bump.
Can I swim during this process?
Only if FC remains in a safe range for your pool and pH is in line. Recovery works best when circulation is uninterrupted, so plan around that.
Should I add clarifier right away?
Usually no. Give measured chlorine and proper filtration time to work before layering on products that can complicate the diagnosis.
What if the water is still cloudy after 48 hours?
Treat that as a sign the problem is bigger than a light haze event. Escalate to SLAM or a broader troubleshooting path.
Water clarity reference
Water Clarity Reference
What does your water look like?
Clear
Bottom details visible, water sparkles in sunlight
Hazy/Dull
Bottom visible but not sharp, water lacks sparkle
Cloudy/Milky
Cannot see bottom clearly, white/gray tint, may be dead algae or fine particles
Green
Visible green color, algae present, may still see bottom or steps
Dark Green
Cannot see bottom, heavy algae bloom, urgent SLAM needed
Educational guidance only. Verify labels, manuals, local code, and site conditions before acting. Stop for electrical, gas, structural, drain, drowning, injury, emergency, or chemical-mixing risk.